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When curating a list of London’s top eateries, one might anticipate well-known Michelin-starred names. Yet, nestled near the top among these gastronomic heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu found in a distant area of north London.

An Surprise Accolade

The little Turkish eatery, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the fourth best restaurant in the capital by a influential food magazine. This honour has made the proprietors utterly shocked.

“I am utterly surprised,” remarks a owner’s son, pointing to his parents’ dedication that resulted in their small place earning such a prominent ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

This little venue, which was a basic cafe before its conversion into a buzzing spot, has kept much of its former character. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking performance, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate spot,” says the owner.

The Star Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all about the fare, and this establishment definitely excels. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a succulent quality.

It is then tossed into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in gradually. As the savoury mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to soak in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is rolled neatly inside.

It is often eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a mighty burst of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The leading food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is soaked in less syrup than usual, giving it a more intense, toastier and less sickly flavour.

Outranking the Stars

Notably, this modest spot has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the peak of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for below £25, equivalent meals at luxury establishments can start at many times that price.

A Philosophy of Hospitality

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I don’t believe in that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is echoed by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he was in a role of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the dangers of overthinking, and to show what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

A Story of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t work at fancy establishments. “I feel really happy of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum used to be really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she had a personal life but her friends would visit to support her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these duties made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

An Recognition for the Culture

The restaurant’s accolade is bound to have meaning outside its own walls. “I believe many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the greater importance of this culinary triumph.